A sculpting question

You all strike me as a clever bunch.  Sure, maybe some are cleverer than others but it’s my bet that you’re all much cleverer than I.

So, a question.

If I made a block from greenstuff and let it go off/hard could I then carve or sculpt an object from it?

Say if I made a block the size of Ann ice block could I then try and carve out a monster head or something?

Thanks team.

28 thoughts on “A sculpting question”

  1. I wouldn’t use greenstuff for that – it ‘tears’ and flexes… what about milliput (maybe a mix of white and brown)? Tough going I reckon. There’s a 10mm company (forgot the name at the mo) and the sculptor carved those (i.e. Uses a reductive method instead of sculpting and adding). Might be worth checking out.

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  2. I’ve had to shave a few rough bits off now and then, and you can certainly cut/shave cured GS with a sharp blade, but I doubt it would hold up well to a concerted carving effort… I reckon there’s a reason that the pros do it the way they do mate 😉

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      1. Well, I watched Kev Adams last year – I think it is basically magic tbh… lots of pulling, prodding, poking, teasing, and then it all sort of appeared! Have a look on Youtube mate, I bet there are some good videos on there…

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  3. If you keep your blades sharp and make sure the greenstuff is fully cured you can definitely carve it, but I wouldn’t suggest it for a face or anything organic. You could probably make some nice looking armour or bricks, or anything like that with hard angles.
    Maybe you could carve out the rough shape and sculpt the details on? You’ve got me curious to just how far you can push this.

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  4. Sculpting hardened green stuff would only be good for making you want to drink. You really need to start with something that has not set up yet, or really if you want to work with a hardened surface, try pine and whittle! I also have used Apoxie sculpt but that’s also something easier used as recommended.

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  5. As blade sandblasters said, green stuff and milliput (I use the fine stuff) is a good option for this. I do a 50/50 mix. Which is nice to file but can be a bit crumbly to carve, adding more green can help with this. The other traditional option is brown stuff, it harder than green and can be sanded and you can mix it with green or milliput. Or you could try baking a block of Fimo. I have experimented with this a little bit, but it doesn’t work if you go to thin. The last one I can think of, if you want something that is amazing to carve, is jewellery wax or carving wax, get the hardest you can find. Hope this helps.

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  6. It’s probably easier to build it up from basic shapes than to sculpt it out of already hardened green stuff.

    Add in the fact that you might not get it completely mixed together as a solid block, but have hollow spots or spaces where the folds don’t unite, and you have a fairly undesirable medium for carving.

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  7. I’d be tempted to try and sculpt out the basic shape as much as possible adding eyes (if it has them) and any bits that are going to be awkward to get “into” later, for angular or flat surfaces try using the side of a small knife to “push” in the shapes. Then once it is cured attack it with needle files rather than carving it.

    Or if you’re careful and really want to carve it you could try “plaster of paris”, might be a bit crumbly though.

    Hope this helps, Cheers Roger.

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  8. I think that you probably could carve it but odds are that it won’t be very easy. Quite frankly I can’t see why you would want to go about doing it that way.

    What you should do is form it into your rough shape and let it cure for a bit and then start sculpting once it’s semi-cured. With some proper tool and loads of water you set to go. If you are doing very advanced sculpting like layers then you might have to sculpt a bit. Let it cure until the next day, add a new layer and letting it cure. Just repeat until you are done.

    I often get a bit restless and loose my patience and end up trying to force the processes. It never really pans out when I do that. Slow and purposeful is the way to do it.

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  9. Carving something with the bendyness of green stuff would be quite tricky, especially if your working on small details. I’d certainly end up making a bloody mess of my fingers!

    The key appears to be patience, adding and subtracting as the project develops. There is a lovely step by step on the Warlord games site showing the development of a gladiator:


    I’ve linked the final part as it lists the previous steps at the top, and I get the impression that like me you like to skip ahead a bit!

    I’ve used the wax before (plastiline, I think it was called) which comes in varying hardness, but only on bird sized items. One advantage being that you can heat the mould and melt out any scraps that get left inside, something you can’t do with clay. However, with green stuff, kneadatite or whichever hardening epoxy you won’t get that issue.

    If you work on several at once it should take a bit of the sting out of all the damned waiting – although I’ve seen people make an ‘oven’ using a bulb and paint tin to speed up the curing process of epoxy.

    Whatever you decide to do, make sure you have fun and I’m really looking forward to seeing what you come up with!

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