Le Carnaval Macabre IV – The Gypsy Queen and the Coaxer

The Gypsy Queen, Eliza Payne, likes to think she rules over the Carnaval Troupe but the assassination of her husband King  six years ago really saw her lose any kind of power or control.

Now she is nothing more than a follower, a performer and a soldier who sometimes yells orders at her cohorts. Orders that either fall upon deaf ears or are completely ignored.


Ive continued with the “masquerade” theme as, I hope, you can tell by the mask Eliza is holding.

We all know the story of the Pied Piper of Hamelin right? Well this is Coaxer of Le Carnaval Macabre. It’s his job, when the Carnaval rolls into town, to coax potential audience members from their shanty’s and hovels and encourage them to pay a penny to see the sights. The Coaxer does this by tooting hypnotic tunes on shin-bone flute. Most onlookers assume the Coaxer wears a mask but they are very much wrong.


More characters to come.

Meanwhile, behind the scenes, I have been chipping away at my Good, Bad, Ugly project too. A whole faction (Good) has been painted which I will do a post on this weekend coming. So stay tuned my paint-aholic friends 😉👍🏼

Oh and another thing…

Could you good people please advise where I should start with Vallejo paints. I’m over the citadel ones. Bloody lids and issues with drying out too quick. I like murky colours, generally, and ink washes.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.


40 thoughts on “Le Carnaval Macabre IV – The Gypsy Queen and the Coaxer”

  1. Well, the creepy theme is continuing well with these two!
    I switched over to Vallejo Model Color acrylics, mainly because most of my stuff is historical, and I get all the colours I need in that range! I just matched the Humbrol enamels to equivalent Vallejo colours gradually and now all my figures are painted in acrylics! The only washes I use are Vallejo black and sepia, which come ready mixed in bigger tubs! But . . . I’m not that good at painting, just couldn’t resist the chance to be first to comment on one of your posts!

    Liked by 3 people

    1. Haha it’s always good to be first unless you’re plying Russian Rhoulette. Thanks for the paint advice. The citadels are doing my head in. They dry out too quickly and the lids become difficult to close grrr. I have a whole bunch of bolt action minis to do so Vallejo will work well.

      Liked by 1 person

  2. More creepiness from down under, love both of these, you say you use murky colours but surely these will have to be bold and bright jester style?

    Sorry cant help with the Vallejo question as I’ve never used them myself, I’m a “miniature paints” man myself .

    Cheers Roger.

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Miniature paints? Is that a brand. I’m pretty naive when it comes to all that as I’m a creature of habit but I’m trying to step out of that. You’re bang on about the brighter colours. I’m going to paint all of them, well most of them, quite different from my usual gear. However my “go to’s” are murky.


      1. I find they separate a lot and so require lots of shaking, and some of the colours come up a bit too shiny, nothing that can’t be fixed by mat spray but still a bit annoying. Generally the colours are good though. I use their Mat Brown, beige gold brown, flat earth, military green, red leather, us dark green, green brown neutral grey, Iraqi sand, English uniform, old gold and German grey a lot. I also have a few of their specific WW2 one I use for WW2 stuff like Russian uniform green. I’ve never been happy with any of their reds.

        Liked by 2 people

    1. I don’t recognise the name Twisties but then again I don’t do the shopping! I started using Vallejo a couple of years ago. Mostly use their Model Color but also have a few Panzer Aces. I still use my Winsor and Newton Oils and my old Humbro matt enamals still get a look in once in a while. Personally I can’t say I have a problem with any of them. I’m mostly driven by the colour I’m looking for. The only exception being my WW1 uniform figures where I bought specific colours recommended within the Vallejo range.

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Twisties might be an Aussie thing so trust me my joke WAS funny but lost on a Pom 😉 Being a creature of habit is going to make it hard to jump to another paint BUT the issues have reached boiling point dammit!!!

        Liked by 1 person

  3. What do you mean by “start” with Vallejo? Aside from “choose colours, buy paints” I can probably answer any (many? most? a bunch?) of your questions, but they probably need to be more focused for me to be useful.

    Also, skip the Miniature paints unless you’re airbrushing. They’re not good at all to use with a brush.

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Well I guess I’m asking where to start as in is there a good starter pack or should I just buy individual paints and build up? What are the best washes close to Nuln, camoshade, flesh shade, earth shade and Seraphim? Cheers man

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Best all-purpose washes in my opinion and experience are by Army Painter:
        Nuln Oil = Dark Tone
        Earthshade = Strong Tone
        Camoshade & Fleshshade = Military Wash & Flesh Wash (not 100% exact, but close enough)

        For washes, I recommend buying this set (from these guys – no connection but always gotten great service)
        I tend to keep a few extras on hand of my “holy trinity” of washes:
        Dark Tone
        Strong Tone
        Soft Tone
        I use all three constantly, as well as combos of Dark+Strong and Strong+Soft. Top Tier.

        Seraphim Sepia = GW is still the best one. You can decant it into a dropper bottle so it lasts longer.

        Vallejo Model Washes are decent, but not as good as the Army Painter. They offer more variations on the individual colours. You could get the set anyway, but I’d recommend getting the Pale Grey if you’re going to skip the set as it really offers some unique options. Remember to shake well.

        For metallics, I recommend this Vallejo Model Air set:
        Yes, it’s airbrush paint. But it works like a dream with a brush. Mark Morin picked these up after my recommendation as well. Only drawback is that the Model Air Gold is quite a white gold, so if you want a richer, more orangey gold, I’d go with GW’s Retributor Armour (again, decant into a dropper if you like)

        This is a decent secondary metallic set from Vallejo, and features richer versions of Gold, Copper, etc. I have and use these as well. (Arcane is also a great guy to shop from and support.)

        Liked by 6 people

      2. Aside from washes and metallics, Vallejo has several main lines and three types of paint

        Game Colour: Basically clones of the previous version of GW’s range. Easy to work with and relatively hard-wearing. Bright colours and shades for fantasy and sci-fi.

        Model Colour: Slightly less hard-wearing, these are their mainline paints designed for historicals, so shades are often a bit more muted/more realistic. There’s still bright stuff here, because it covers everything from WW2 to Napoleonics, but it’s generally more realistic tones. I’ve read that it’s less hard-wearing, but I always cover my models with a protective coat, and I’ve never noticed a problem.

        Game/Model Air: Airbrush-friendly versions of the Game and Model Colour lines. The colours are sometimes a little off from their “original” forms. The paint is the same in both ranges, just the colours are based on the ones from the Model or Game Colour lines. They work perfectly well with a brush.

        Then there’s stuff like Panzer Aces. It’s just a sub-label of Model Air in conjunction with some other company as a co-promotion.

        If you want to go all in on a full paint set, I’d go with one of these as you’re primarily a fantasy/sci-fi painter:

        Just email the Firestorm guys and ask if they can split ship the paint set so you can take advantage of the free shipping offer of 40UKP and up, because if you bought all of the paints individually they would ship them for free. I’ve done the same and they’ve done it for me for two or three different giant paint sets over the years.

        Some of the paints are better than others. All will need to be well shaken regularly. Coverage with some yellow and the odd red or green is variable, so you’ll need multiple well-mixed coats, but you’ve been using GW paints so you’ll be used to the need to shake well and variable coverage. The Model Air paints are a touch thinner, which means they clog less and flow better, but sometimes means they’ll need more coats than the equivalent Game Air paint.

        Having said that, it depends on what you want and what you want to spend. You could buy one of those large sets, or piecemeal, or start with a smaller set and then add as you go.

        Buy this and decant it into a dropper bottle. It is your new Black Paint and you’re never allowed to use anything else again, because EVERYTHING ELSE is garbage by comparison.

        Any more questions, just shoot. (I’m going to steal some of this for my next blog post about paints, btw!)

        Liked by 3 people

  4. I’ve been a Vallejo acrylics man after switching from Humbrol some years ago. Deciding to switch to acrylics, I tried a few other manufacturers and it was all a bit disappointing until I found Vallejo. Since then I can’t say I’ve ever been disappointed in any Vallejo paint I’ve ordered.

    Mostly I used the Model Color but I’ve used the Game Color range too and it’s all good. One or two shades give a little bit of shine, but it’s not that common a problem for me. A touch of matt varnish eradicates it anyway.

    Nice sculpts by the way 🙂

    Liked by 2 people

  5. Fascinating group you got going here!

    As for Vallejo vs Citadel, I posted a blog article recently about that. I think Azazel covered everything I said and more, backed by a lot more experience to boot. You can read here if you like: https://doubledowndice.wordpress.com/2018/04/10/tool-tips-09-paints/

    My major takeaway though, would be to swap out the Citadel bottles. There is a good video on that approach here:

    I have used Vallejo a long time, but am now adding Citadel paints. Mainly because it seems no single paint manufacturer is perfect across all colors. Vallejo Glorious Gold really let me down recently. It could just be the bottle I had, but I switched to Citadel Retributor Armor, and it’s so much better. Also, the Vallejo paints can be really thin and some of them will require multiple coats. For base coats, I would use the Vallejo Heavy Opaque line, as you will get better coverage.

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Cheers man. I’m almost starting to think I’ll do the whole decant think from citadel paints into droppers. I like the citadel paints but they just seem to dry out quicker these days than ever before. I’ve got an old white lidded tall hexagon shaped citadel container of blue from the 90s that is still very good today. Whereas I have newer pots that dry out after a few months. SO I think I just want to try something else but I dare say I will forgive games workshop eventually and have a combination of both citadel and Vallejo hehe. Definitely keen to try their washes.

      Liked by 3 people

      1. The nice thing about getting Citadel paint into dropper bottles, is that I had to add Flow Aid to get them pour out. So the paints end up the perfect consistency right out of the dropper bottle. I’ll occasionally add a little bit of water or Flow Aid, but it’s way better than the thick goop you would get straight from a Citadel pot.

        Liked by 2 people

    2. I’ve decanted a few of my Citadels but generally keep them in the pots. Mostly due to inertia, laziness and too many paints to bother with.
      Good call on the Vallejo Heavy Opaques. I thought of those, then forgot to write anything about them (it was late, orright?) Another set worth picking up – they’re equivalent to the discontinued Citadel Foundation paints – so like their base paints, but with a bit more base.

      Liked by 2 people

      1. Yea, I only have 20 or so Citadel paints and half of those have been moved into dropper bottles. I tend to do it as I get ready to test a new Citadel paint. If I had to transfer all my Vallejo paints, I’d probably just switch brands!

        I don’t now how long the Vallejo Heavy Opaques have been around, but I only found out about them this year. Would have saved me a lot of painting time, had I known earlier!

        Liked by 2 people

      2. They’ve been around for quite awhile. The Citadel Foundation Paints were established but far from being discontinued when the Heavy Opaques turned up.

        Liked by 1 person

  6. Good discussion all – just catching up on my blogging as have had some personal challenges. As for paint, and as I mostly am a metal mini guy, I think Azazel’s advice is good, but I also still use paints that are over 34 years old (mainly for nostalgia at this point). For anything else, when I star a project I have a painting plan, and then I get what I need. It helps to have an Excel inventory list, which I have. Now over 265 active and 50 retired paints tracked.

    Liked by 1 person

  7. Can’t add much about Vallejo, other than I love them. I switched 15 years ago, and other than still occassionally using Citadel washes, I use Vallejo almost exclusively. I do use the Army Painter washes. Strong, Soft and Flesh. Lots of them. I love how they shade.
    For Vallejo, just grab a pot or 10 at a time as you need colors. I have probably 50%+ of both the model colors and game colors, all bought by the bottle. I’ve had one or two bottles “off” in 15 years and more than 150 bottles.

    The heavy opaques are pretty cool.
    Very pigmented, they cover well.

    One thing not mentioned was the inks. Very strong colors. They wash and shade very well. They take a little getting used to due to the intensity of the color, but you can get some cool effects. I use them a lot with WFB models.
    Good luck! Lovely models, btw

    Liked by 1 person

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